Thursday, January 7, 2010

Headache, Columbian Hospitality and the Healing Powers of Cartagena

For me headache was becoming a common reality. This morning in Bogota was no different. I made my search for the Panadol that had become all too familiar. Two panadols later I was ready to face the day and check how Michael was.

He was waking as if out of some induced coma, I wondered what was in that needle the night before. Maybe I needed one. I did have to stay conscious to get us organised and on our early morning flight too Cartagena.

Michael was very dizzy and I was not much better. Maybe we had dizzy queen syndrome?. Some how we managed to get ready and consume breakfast. Michael's tummy was feeling a lot better. We farewelled the kind people at the hotel and were on our way to the airport.

The road to the airport was lined with the military(yes those machine guns made a reappearance). As this was early in the morning and the sun was just coming up it looked like this military presence was an overnight custom in the Columbian capital. Eventually we made it through the military check points and were ready to board our on time Avianca flight for Cartagena.

The first thing we noticed on landing in Cartagena was that it had a distinctly tropical feel.
In a short time we were snaking our way through the streets of the old city known as Centro.


The Taxi came to a halt outside a white stacoed wall with a double wooded door in the middle. We were motioned to press the buzzer close to the door. As the taxi driver began to unload the luggage.

A few moments later I could hear the clip clop of thongs on a tiled floor coming from behind the door( Yes the dreaded world invasion of the hideous rubber thong had made its way to Cartagena). In the top right hand corner of the door appeared a small slot ( that upto this time I had not noticed) The slot was pulled back and behind it peered a pair of mysterious eyes through a metal grate( How Indiana Jones is this).

We must have appeared ok as soon half of the right hand door was being opened. We obviously had been permitted entry. Luggage made its way through the small door and we were greeted by the owner of the eyes. A small pretty girl brimming with the natural Columbian Hospitality that we had become accustomed to.



Stepping our way through the dark reception we made our way to a charming light filled internal courtyard. The heart of these type of Casa's as it allows not only light but ventilation. It was still early morning and we were informed our room would not be ready until 12:00 midday.



Leaving our bags in a secured area we left the Pousada and ventured off on foot to let the Travel God take us to wherever there were areas of interest. We headed out of the old city and headed to a spot where we saw people milling. The city was wakening from its slumber. At this spot we noticed a shopping centre called “Centro Uno” and thought this must be what all the fuss is about. We went inside and quickly realised this must be the most boring shopping centre in the whole of South America!!. The crowd was definitely not here as we could wander around in isolation. The centre had a few dowdy clothes shops, a hairdresser and a couple of electronic outlets. The shops on the two upper levels had closed down and were up for lease.( I thought who would rent them in this ghost town?) The centre did have one redeeming feature, a toilet. Which we made use of and made a quick march for the exit.

Once outside we decided to just follow the throng of the crowd. This lead us to a series of alleyways accessible only by foot. We passed through a number of small market type stalls selling everything from clothing to mechanical parts for cars. At the end of these alleyways was a wonderful place of fresh food.

There was a abundance of fruit, vegetables and fresh meat, Chicken and fish that looked like it had just come out of the sea. Here people were closely inspecting the produce. We felt like we were part of the crowd as people approached us to purchase. ( I think they thought Michael was one of the local community members).

Most of the local residents like Michael are of mixed race. A Unique combination of African Indeginous Indian and European ancestry.

They are a very handsome group and have a strong sense of spiritual well being. We came to the end of the markets and decided to make our way back to our pousada.

On finding our Pousada we once again pressed the buzzer and the “thongs” were on their way. Inside we took refuge in the internal courtyard and were informed our room would be ready shortly. The Casa Boutique Veranera advertises itself as a boutique hotel, but so far it had the feel of just a nice Pousada. I thought it best to cast my final judgement after I had seen the room.

Finally our room was ready and we were taken up the stairs of the internal courtyard to our accomodation. We had already been told we would be staying in the green room. ( was this the place we stayed before appearing on Columbian TV?) There was nothing boutique about the room but it had a nice comfy bed, aircon that worked and a functional bathroom. As expected the Casa Boutique Veranera was just a nice Pousada not a boutique hotel. The staff had been so welcoming and professional that we were prepared to overlook the misleading advertising.

“Only Mad Dogs and English Men go out in the Midday Sun” and seeing that we were neither of the above( thankfully) we decided to have Siesta. Both of us drifted into a deep hazy sleep. Michael was still not quite 100%. We woke about 7:00pm and decided to go out for a stroll.

We exited the pousada through the wooden door and were ready to take another adventure through the streets of Cartagena. Only this time at night. The streets were lit by old fashioned lamps stuck to the wals of the Casas and restaurants that lined the streets. columbian and Cuban music drifted from the different bars, restaurants and casas. A refreshing breeze peppered its way through the streets bringing a cool calmness with it. We were starting to feel refreshed and revitalised. Cartagena was working its magic with its healing powers.







I was feeling a little peckish after hours of walking. So we begin our search for a nice restaurant. It was not long before we were entering a nicely decorated Italian Restaurant. with a direct view of the old wall of the enclosed city.


A wall that had protected the city well from invasion and pirate attack. Perhaps it was also in some strange way this same wall that had kept Cartagena safe from the effects of the bloody civil that had ravaged much of Colombia in the past. Life in Cartagena went on fairly much uninterrupted during this period of civil unrest.

Michael decided not to have anything to eat as he was still worried about his stomach, He also was virtually falling asleep at the table. I ordered my food. Ate a delicious meal and soon we were on our way back to the Pousada. Passing a doorway we heard wonderful music. I said to Michael that the music sounded live. Michael as always took the negative option and said it was recorded. Curiousity got the better of me and I ventured into the doorway. Sure enough I was right and there against the wall was a Band playing the most glorious Music. Soon we were inside the Bar enjoying its surrounds and the music of the Band.

Listening to the traditional Columbian/Cuban Music took Michael back to his childhood in India and he was very overwhelmed. For me I had always had this fantasy of listening to Columbian/Cuban music live in a strange foreign place close to the sea. Tonight was a special night for us both. The magic of the music and the night surrounded us. We floated back to our pousada on an absolute high.